Footprints in the Mist: My Search for Atlantean Remnants in the Azores

Following Hemingway’s footsteps across the Atlantic to gaze at the mountain peeks of old Atlantis

All photos from the author’s portfolio

Part one

Preamble

In the summer of 1954, Ernest Hemingway and his wife, Mary Welsh, embarked on a transatlantic journey aboard the Italian liner Francesco Morosini.

As the ship cut through the waves of the Atlantic, the couple found themselves amid the rhythms of life at sea, with the promise of adventure on the horizon. Yet, despite the allure of distant shores, there’s no evidence to suggest that the legendary writer ever set foot on Faial Island, part of the Azores archipelago.

When the Francesco Morosini docked in Funchal, Madeira, in June, Hemingway would have had the opportunity to explore at least one of Portugal’s stunning archipelagos.

Madeira, with its lush landscapes and vibrant culture, could have offered the author a moment of respite or inspiration. But whether he actually stepped ashore remains a mystery. Some accounts suggest he stayed aboard, while others hint at a brief visit. The truth, it seems, is lost to the tides of time.

What we do know, however, is that Mary Welsh, Hemingway’s wife, did venture into Funchal. In her diary and later memoirs, she vividly recounted her exploration of the city, chaperoned by the ship’s captain. Her writings provide a glimpse into the couple’s travels, even as Hemingway’s own movements during this stop remain shrouded in uncertainty.

I’m kicking off a new series here on Portugal Calling about my trip to Faial, one of nine volcanic islands in the Azores.

The plan here is to follow Hemingway’s imaginary footsteps across the Atlantic, and try to piece together what he could have seen, felt, or maybe even scribbled in a notebook.

Think rugged coastlines, salty seafaring tidbits, and that weird thrill of standing where giants might have stood.

Was Faial part of his story?

I don’t know yet… but I’m digging into every clue.

Want to come along?

The full adventure, interspersed with photos, anecdotes, and a few Hemingway-esque quotes about rum and the open sea, is waiting for you, dear reader.

Let’s solve this mystery together as we search for Atlantis.

Day One

Wherever you go somehow becomes a part of you

“In order to write about life first you must live it.”
Ernest Hemingway

This is the beginning of a new journey that I know will change me forever…